Pairings Wine Bar: A Civilised Sanctuary in the York Saturday Night Safari
22 May 2025
The concept is simple yet enticing – explore and compare fine wines and spirits alongside each other in “flights,” accompanied by expertly matched food pairings. As someone who appreciates both wine and not being accidentally elbowed by a man dressed as a giant banana, this sounded perfect. The reviews I’d read beforehand were universally glowing, which set my expectations stratospherically high as Andrew and I planned our York Saturday night adventure. Pairings was to be our sophisticated middle act, sandwiched between sun-drenched drinks at Spark and a planned finale at Malmaison’s rooftop garden.
Oasis Amid the Urban Safari
Stepping into Pairings from the streets of York on a race day Saturday feels like discovering a David Attenborough-worthy hidden oasis in the midst of a particularly raucous ecosystem. Outside: the mating calls of the Lesser Spotted Hen Party and the territorial displays of the Common Stag Do. Inside: an elegant sanctuary where the only wildlife was the occasional excited gesticulation over a particularly good glass of Rioja.
We were seated at the bar, giving us prime viewing position of both the restaurant’s inner workings and, through the window, occasional glimpses of the parallel universe outside where people were consuming drinks at a pace more associated with Olympic competition than appreciation.
The service was impeccable from the moment we arrived – attentive without hovering, knowledgeable without pretension, and carrying the calm demeanor of people who’ve mastered the art of creating tranquility even while York’s equivalent of Carnival happens just outside their door.
To experience the true Pairings concept, we each ordered the Classic Flight (£30) – three fine wines expertly paired with sourdough crackers, chutney, oil, and balsamic. Between us, we enjoyed two whites and one red alongside two meats and one cheese. The showstopper was undoubtedly the Greek Paranga white Kir-Yianni with its fresh apricot and peach notes complemented by whispers of sage and jasmine, perfectly matched with Manchego cheese. This combination was so moreish it should come with a warning label.
Having developed a taste for this culinary matchmaking, we added two small plates: anchovies (£6.50) that wore their saltiness like a designer outfit, and pork rillette (£7) – Cornish lop pork poached in duck fat, shredded with whole-grain mustard and capers, served with toasted sourdough and cornichons. Both hit the spot so precisely that the anchovies’ salt content practically demanded we order an additional bottle.
After a brief old world versus new world debate (the kind of civilised disagreement that wasn’t happening on the streets outside), we settled on a Portuguese Altano Douro Branco from the Symington family – light, lemon-zesty and crisp, it provided the perfect counterpoint to our growing confidence in our sommelier-adjacent opinions.
Every table around us was full – couples leaning in conspiratorially, groups of friends gesticulating with wine glasses, and yes, even the occasional well-behaved hen party who had somehow evolved beyond their street-dwelling counterparts. The background hum created the perfect acoustic backdrop for Andrew and I to put the world to rights, without ever having to repeat ourselves or resort to the interpretive dance communication required in many Saturday night York establishments.
Occasionally, we’d catch sight of passing revelers pressing their noses against the glass like children at a sweet shop window, their expressions a mixture of curiosity and jealousy at the civilised scene within. The contrast couldn’t have been starker – outside, the untamed wilds of York nightlife; inside, a perfectly orchestrated symphony of food, wine and conversation.
We finished with the Sweet Tooth Flight (£17 each) – a tray of mini desserts each paired with dessert wines. The Spätlese Merlot stole my heart with its wild strawberries, sour cherry notes and spicy finish. The triple chocolate and caramel brownie, strawberry and champagne cream tart, and Earl Grey and lemon curd panna cotta that accompanied these wines were, yes, exactly as good as they sound.
Our allotted two-hour slot passed far too quickly. We could easily have stayed another two hours, had the next eager customers not been waiting and our Malmaison rooftop adventure not been calling.
The Verdict: Civilisation in a Glass
In a city where Saturday night transforms the streets into something resembling a zoo breakout crossed with a carnival, Pairings Wine Bar stands as proof that civilisation not only exists but thrives. It’s a York staple I’d recommend to anyone seeking shelter from the storm of race day revelry while still wanting to experience something uniquely York.
The pricing (£30 for the classic, cheese lovers, fish or vegan flights; £26 for alcohol-free pairings; £17 for the sweet tooth flight) represents excellent value for the quality of both product and experience. The flights format makes it perfect for dates (instant conversation starters in every glass), groups (the theatrical presentation adds flair), or really anyone who appreciates good food and drink served with expertise.
As we reluctantly left our haven and stepped back into the wild Saturday night landscape of York, I couldn’t help but feel we’d experienced something special – not just good wine and food, but a masterclass in creating atmosphere. In the documentary of York’s Saturday night, Pairings is the calm, sophisticated scene just before the credits roll – the one that makes you think, “Ah, so this is what civilisation feels like.”
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