Sushi in the City @ Devonshire Club, Liverpool Street

20 Mar 2018

Beating the winter blues is easy! All you need to remember is that you can enjoy how much quieter the bars are and you don’t have to book in advance for a restaurant. Most of the time anyway. And one such place is The Devonshire Club, a members’ club and boutique hotel set nice and close to Liverpool Street. Inside, it’s mighty elegant, the chairs are plush and velvety, there are pops of yellow, shiny floors, low sofas to lounge on and huge windows overlooking the private garden with its green grass and picket fence.

We’re here on a Saturday afternoon for the Sushi in the City brunch: they serve a set Sushi menu between 11.30am and 3.30pm with (£50pp) free flowing Prosecco (£15) or Champagne (£30) and some chilled out electronic tunes from the inhouse DJ. A chilled out Saturday sounded fun, but with ‘free flowing Prosecco’ I’m not sure how ‘chilled out’ I could really be. Do I get brownie points for saying I tried?

Looking like a portable supermarket fish counter the first of the food (shamishi) was served on a bed of crushed ice, with dry ice pouring from a well in the middle (getting the party started) creating a fog around slices of salmon, tuna, butterfish and prawns. I was horrendously won over by this fish disco and looked under the tuna to see where the mirrored ball was going to emerge from.

When the next section arrived, it was time for the fish bash to move aside and make room for the sushi and tempura seafood and veg. Little domes of moulded rice hugged by slices of tuna, salmon, and prawn around California rolls on a bamboo leaf. It was so handsome it looked like it fancied itself and the taste was incredible. The crunchy tempura was sprinkled with just the right amount of batter, like they’d taken a short walk in batter rain not drowned in the stuff by a mafia member angry at his broccoli.

Throughout the brunch there is a warm atmosphere exuding from the orange lighting and wooden panelling, it’s the polar opposite to eating sushi in a clinically stark high street chain when the harsh white light can feel like you’re being interrogated by PC Salmon and Detective Tuna, here you’d get away with murder easily.

The last course (yes, can you believe it, more food?) almost had me defeated; there was a fresh bowl of warm ramen, a pomegranate salad, and a cooked to perfection buttery, hot miso-blackened cod which fell apart with the touch of a chopstick, but it was all too good to leave on the plate, each flavour was a flavour I wanted in my mouth and totally fresh.

It’s hard to feel anything other than full when you feel full, which means there’s no room for any winter blues and with fish discos, foggy plates and free flowing Prosecco there is a bonafide way of beating those blues away not just for the afternoon, but for the rest of the season too.

Lindsey

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