Burger Me, This is Good! Patty & Bun, Soho
12 Aug 2016
Patty & Bun’s aim is simple – to provide the ultimate comfort food and a memorable burger experience. Without having even set foot inside the restaurant, the team had certainly delivered me some long-lasting memories with the waiter arguing outside the front door with a delivery man on his motorbike. After realising we had heard the whole debacle, the waiter ushered us to the tiny bar at the back of the restaurant, giving us a chance to order some pretty spot on cocktails and himself a chance to recompose. Win win.
But let’s back up. The ambience of Patty & Bun is what sets it far apart from its competitors. Much smaller and more intimate than say, Meat Liquor, and way more authentic than Ed’s Easy Diner across the street, Patty & Bun is a loud, brash, disco-music pumping, neon-red lit Soho hotspot where either you will feel like you may be on drugs, or be sure that the guy at the table next to you already is.
While trying to slow down in sipping my Turtle’s Margarita cocktail (£9) – a heady blend of Mezcal, Tequila, Cointreau, Strawberry, P&B Hot Sauce and Lime, I managed to relax into the whole P&B experience and order one of their now famous burgers. A classic becomes a classic for a reason so I went for the original ‘Ari Gold’ Cheeseburger (£7.50). The burger, presented in paper sans tray, plate or any other equipment or tools (hey, who needs ‘em?) was a just-pink beef patty topped with cheese, tomato, lettuce, pickled onion, smokey P&B mayo and ketchup, all served on a sweet and soft brioche bun. If that felt epic to read, just imagine what it felt like to eat. If we’re going to nit-pick (and let’s be honest, of course we are), the burger itself could have been ever so slightly juicier, but that’s really clutching at beef-flavoured straws because the truth it, it was as epic as its description.
Even better were the Chips with Roast Chicken Mayo & Chicken Skin Salt (£3.70) served on the burger’s side. You know those people that take the skin off the chicken and just leave it on the side of their plate? Yeah, those people are wrong. That skin should be revered for all its fatty, crispy goodness and P&B know it and do it oh so well.
From start to finish, Patty & Bun delivered as random and emotionally heightened burger experience as you could hope to receive. Front door disputes, cocktails that burn and delight as they go down and burgers that demand you suck it up and get messy all make for a night out in Soho that competes with any of its neighbouring bars or clubs. You can listen to some absolutely banging music while eating a burger and chicken skin. Not sure any of the other Soho destinations can quite live up to that or match the perfectly understandable and deserved Patty & Bun hype.