Grab A KuPP By The Canal, Paddington

09 Aug 2016

Being placed alongside the canal in Paddington Basin is a prime location for the Scandinavian-inspired restaurant KuPP. It’s been existing on the influx of newcomers that have begun to infiltrate the up-and-coming area, the newcomers that don’t want not-that-cheap and not-that-cheerful Pizza Express.

The perceived Scandinavian lifestyle has been one to envy, I mean, we’ve all been to Ikea haven’t we? It’s amazing, whereas the food has never been something they’ve really shouted about. Was it also a flat packed job? Would you be taken through a maze of a menu, each dish presented beautifully only to discover on ordering it that you would have to spend three hours in the basement looking for aisle 64-K and then construct the meal yourself from a less-than-useless cookbook or manual.

Inside KuPP, it’s spacious and beautiful. The industrial doors open onto the canal with outside tables that hug the front. It’s a shame, however, that they couldn’t have moved it up a 100 yards or so since the apartment block opposite is more horrendous to look at than walking behind a dog with its tail in the air.

When both the waiter and waitress come over to make some space for the starter (a sharing Fiske Board (£25)) on your table you know you won’t be disappointed. A boat of a board was carried from the kitchen holding a selection of salmon, trout, prawns, potato salad and pickled vegetables (so sweet, crunchy and tasty they could be served as part of a Pick n’ Mix).  I can only say the Brit in me wanted to smother the rye and crispbread which was also included, in salted butter, or copy our sexier neighbours and dip them in olive oil, as they were quite dry alone, but maybe that’s how the Scandinavians like it.

The mains, Oven Roast Venison Loin (£19) and 28 Day Dry Aged British Ribeye (£22) were blooming impressive and must be what falling in love is like. The staff in their open kitchen know how to cook to perfection, letting the flavour of the meat be king of the plate, the accompaniments (veg, salad and chips) however delightful, were a mere distraction from the unparalleled flavour of the prime cuts of meat.

The White chocolate cheesecake for dessert was thicker than a member of TOWIE, it took some strength to dive the spoon in and extract from the jar some pale mousse and bashed crumbly biscuit. It’s about as indulgent as a dessert can get without being too sickly.

With the food done and dusted there is one last gem that this field-sized restaurant has hidden up its sleeve: cocktails. The Bloody Mary (£9) comes with an ideal amount of spice, it makes you look up to the sky and thank the Gods that someone finally got it right, the Viking Blood (£8) made Kahlua taste like it’s never tasted before with Aquavit OP, lemonade and orange, transforming this usually heavy, wintery liquor into something light and summery.

KuPP is great and the food is as fresh as the Prince of Bel-Air. You can come away with a spring in your step since your insides don’t feel like they’ve been digesting well-seasoned cement for the past three hours. The only bad thing – it’s an only child, but that my friends, could all be about to change.

Lindsey

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