Get Down & Dirty at Mac and Wild, Fitzrovia

25 Mar 2018

Sometimes, it’s a good idea to learn from other people’s mistakes. I recently read a review by Marina O’Loughlin who suggested keeping schtum about other diners. For one, they are subject to change and for two, she received an ass whipping for it.

I would take this advice, but when the couple on the next table ask you to ‘babysit’ their wine while they take pictures, videos and social-whatever-else, I really feel it deserves a mention and certainly deserves a laugh. I swear, there’s been less direction on a photo shoot with Pamela Anderson in her prime.

This shoot took place at London’s Scottish restaurant in Devonshire Square, Mac and Wild. Luckily space wasn’t an issue for my brother and me because our Spey Sour cocktails (which included Irn Bru of course) were polished off quickly and removed from the table without the offering of another drink – the speediest service we received all night.

Diners and space aside, all the food at Mac & Wild was full of ferocious flavour. The veggie haggis pops (£5.50) is still to date, some of the best things to ever meet my insides, served with a small dish of red Jon sauce so great I couldn’t give any of it up to the napkin when it ran down my fingers. The salmon and sourdough (£7) was fresh and the wedge of bread was so big it could have been used to put someone out of their misery.

Finding Mac & Wild is like stumbling on a secret castle in the woods, the windows are tall and barred, there is wine behind cages, dark corridors, basement rooms and stone steps. It’s smart, but we didn’t feel out of place with our ‘cannot do withouts’ stuffed into Eastpaks under the table.

The burgers here tasted fabulous, served on silver tin trays straight from Millets. The award-winning beef and venison Veni-moo burger (£11.50) with cheese, is the kind of burger to put more hairs on your Grandma’s chest and the Bloody Roots burger (£11) with Macsween veggie haggis tasted so meaty I’d swear the vegetables spilt blood when they were ripped from their roots.

The deep fried Mars bar sundae (£6.50) was a lunatic of a dessert, so good I nearly forgot my name, however, the sticky toffee pudding (£7) which arrived ten minutes later, was a dry piece of sponge and served with two serving spoons so big I could have used them to escape.

Mac & Wild is great carnivorous food, it’s food which won’t apologise for getting a stain down your top, or making you look like you’ve survived a battle, I’d taste it again in a second. I’m sure next time the neighbours would be on their best behaviour and we will be able to exit in the traditional way, via the front door.


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